The trend is towards non-trend

Amadeus Thüner is one of the best-known sneaker experts in Germany, after all, he has been in the game for almost 20 years. For FashionUnited, he gives an outlook on the upcoming trends, reveals his dream collaboration and proves that “sneakerheads” don’t just have to have sneakers in their closet.

The cold season began and with it the weather changed. Which sneaker is your current number one for this period?

Anything that is full leather because it is easier to clean. It doesn’t matter if it gets a little dirty or wet. You can also prepare it well, waterproof it, etc. If there are a few puddles, then a high top is certainly a good idea.

A learned choice over the last few years is always a ‘Jordan 1’ or ‘Nike Dunk High’. But actually all other brands also have high tops in their portfolio. Even New Balance, who are usually more into the running sector, have a bit of something there.

And regardless of the weather?

The nice thing is that we currently have models from all brands with which you can do wonderful things. Personally, I’ve been a big ‘Nike SB Dunk’ fan for decades. A lot is still happening in the skateboarding sector. Especially after the Olympics, there were many models that were intended for Paris. I’m also excited about the entire 990 series from New Balance, whether it’s the 991, 992… I’m still a “Jordan” wearer. Even if this has become a bit boring for many people, nothing ruins a classic.

Is there a sneaker that makes you bored?

I saw the Adidas Samba a lot when I was young and of course recently too. The Adidas Gazelle, the Handball Spezial and all of Adidas’ corduroy silhouettes don’t make the shoe bad either, but that’s something I’ve seen enough of now. I’m also looking forward to seeing something different again.

What would that be at Adidas?

Of course, Adidas also has a large and broad heritage in all kinds of sports. There’s 100% something in the archive that’s lying dormant and would be cool to see again. It’s also a good thing that they had this run with the corduroy silhouettes, but I just got tired of them.

Adidas could play everything related to ZX again. It would be nice if this was taken up a little more strongly again. To be honest, I was a bit surprised why they didn’t do this as part of the European Football Championship. But the focus was more on the samba. But otherwise Adidas has lots and lots of nice things. Now they are bringing back a bit of basketball heritage.

What trends are you seeing overall in the sneaker world right now?

The trend is towards the non-trend and that’s actually pretty cool. I don’t mean to say that certain models, even in collaborations, can have a very short moment of momentum and create hype. But we don’t have to wear just Swoosh, Adidas Three Stripes or just New Balance.

Everything goes and we can wear anything. Every brand sometimes puts in more effort, sometimes less. You will find models, collaborations and exciting colorways. Whether you just run around with the big Nike, Adidas, Puma, New Balance, or my other Skechers, or choose something from Hookah, Salomon, Diadora, Saucony or other brands – everything is possible. This plays into the hands of individualism. And that’s actually what distinguishes sneaker culture: wearing something that not everyone wears.

There was a change in the streetwear scene, with shoes other than sneakers also becoming more popular. How do you assess this development?

Especially in Germany there always has to be a counter-movement somehow. It has a negative connotation, which I think is a total shame. You can have a sneaker, a loafer or a cool boot in your closet, whatever you feel like it, and therefore you don’t necessarily have to limit yourself to anything.

I have Clarks Wallabees myself and also boots if it really snows. Does this make me less of a sneakerhead or does someone who wears loafers automatically become a sneakerhead if they buy a sneaker?

Is sneaker saturation the reason?

Of course, the sneaker was very omnipresent for a long time, which is why people decided to wear something different for various reasons. Timberland’s boots were very popular again last winter. They always used to be that way.

For the new generation that is now starting to get involved with fashion, it is fresh and new. We’ve already seen that and that’s okay too. It shows how Timberland or Clarks are brands that can inspire people again and again.

How do the generations differ?

They are now combined differently. The way loafers are currently worn is different than expected. The original casual shoe found its way into a hip-hop-influenced clientele in the 90s, which today allows the shoe to be combined more with streetwear. Just like the sneaker was for the indoor floor and is now worn on the street.

Certainly a measure of summery “Saint Tropez” chic also contributed to the fact that it doesn’t always have to be linen trousers that can be added to the Gucci loafer.

Which sneaker brands are your insider tip?

There are brands that actually still have quite a bit of scale, but are not so well known due to their own heritage. Mizuno is huge in Asia. It feels like everyone wears it and sports like volleyball and table tennis are represented. They are not yet that well known in Germany. But I’m definitely a fan.

Saucony is currently making moves that New Balance did a few years ago. They rely on selected partners with niche following, rather than the largest collaboration partners. This works in a very organic way.

Vans isn’t a small brand either, but they’ve done themselves a big favor by wanting to go “back to basics”. Just not something I would necessarily wear in fall or winter.

Otherwise, it’s really exciting to see what’s happening at Merrell, a brand that isn’t huge yet. Brands like Flowers for Society, which are not part of the mainstream, have also built a good community. They are pushing and currently doing a lot. A great asset!

Which sneaker collab blew you away this year?

Patta and Nike are always a safe bet. Especially that they are bringing the shoe back after 15 years for the 20th anniversary. It’s nothing new, but many people didn’t have access to the model back then, weren’t yet active and were now able to experience it.

I also liked what A Ma Maniére did with Nike’s Jordan brand and the collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore (ALD). A lot of people find it boring because it’s definitely what they’ve done before, but “Never Change a Winning Team.” Otherwise, Nike SB has done a lot of exciting things, like the model in honor of the legendary graffiti writer Futura 2000.

What collaboration do you dream of?

Palace and Nike SB. But there is a rumor that as long as Nike works with Supreme, Palace won’t. So we’ll probably have to wait a little longer.

Are collaborations even special anymore?

The frequency has increased and we see a lot of collabs, but also because they work. I always say: one and one make three, then it’s a good collab. What I mean by that is, if you bring the two respective target groups together, you can create something new and if it’s something creative that happens on equal terms, then that’s great.

But then the wheat is separated from the chaff. If it’s just two logos slapped together, it’s not exciting. Only storytelling can charge a product with emotions and bind people to the product or the respective brand.

Which story impressed you emotionally?

James Whitner, the man behind A Ma Maniére, delivered a good story and gave impressions of ‘Black Culture’, including ‘Black Female Culture’. I am neither a person of color nor a woman, but discover through the story he tells me. He focuses on Chicago. “Black culture” may look completely different, but it is still really exciting to find out more about it and discover a story like that. That’s what it should be about, showing each other things.

Where do you go hunting for new models?

Germany in particular has many very good stores, and we don’t have to hide in international comparison even across Europe. I have love for everyone.

What role do sustainable sneaker brands play?

I have the impression that the Corona period has changed the focus again. It didn’t solve sustainability, but there were simply other problems. This is not to distract from the fact that sustainability is a very important factor. We, in this fashion industry – whether sneakers or other areas – are simply some of the most unsustainable consumers ever. A lot has to happen across fashion, from the brand to the consumer.

In the sneaker sector, there are of course many endeavors and moments in which things worked out quite well or were at least an impetus. However, I couldn’t name a brand that I was so convinced of and that I think could be interesting again in the future. A lot of it is just project-based and that’s good, but beyond that, at least for me, what perhaps should have happened hasn’t happened yet.

Some brands also focus entirely on the topic…

Of course there are brands that pay a lot of attention to this sustainability aspect, but I don’t have the personal approach. In addition, the lack of longevity also plays a role for many. The materials used usually do not allow the shoe to function for a certain period of time. Of course, even a Nike shoe has problems with adhesives and other materials after 20 years. However, for me there is currently no good alternative and no brand that is ‘first class’.